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2015 f150 stereo upgrade4/19/2024 Repeat this on the left b-pillar, but watch out for NEW COLORS.(Just in case you haven't noticed, you don't have to remove the door panels and access your rear speakers - just pick up these leads after they've entered the cabin at the b-pillar to make your life a lot easier!) Using Quick Splice plastic crimps, connect the + and - speaker leads to your own speaker wire.Run speaker wire from the rear of the back seat (where the amp will be) to the right b-pillar, hiding the wire in the door sills that you just uncovered.The NEGATIVE (-) speaker wire is Brown with Blue Stripe. The POSITIVE (+) speaker wire is Brown with White Stripe. On the right speaker side, unwrap the tape holding the bundle of wires down the b-pillar and look for the two wires that are very obviously twisted around one another.You'll unclip 4-5 clips along each side and free that up, exposing wiring that runs down the b-pillar. Stick your fingers in there, wiggle strongly, and pull back. On the b-pillar, where the seatbelt enters the pillar area, there's a recess.Use a molding removal tool to pry up the middle floor plastic plate in the front DRIVER SIDE door (leave the front passenger area alone).( No bolts, just a few clips that take a little effort to pry up.) Use a molding removal tool to pry up the middle floor plastic plate in each of the rear door areas.Lower the rear seat using the unlock handle on the bottom of the rear seat.(This is best reached with any wrench - put the tiny latch nub in the wrench hole and yank upward to release.) Reach in behind the head rest and lift up the tiny little metal cylinder on the latch on the seat side.Press the clip in on both the left and right metal rods and remove the headrest to get it out of your way. Start with back seat up head rest down.Pop your rear driver-side seat down (detailed guide with pics is here).How-to Guide (you don't have to necessarily follow the steps in this order, but it worked for me) A handful of twistable Wire Caps (for connecting your high-level leads to your amp's high-level input leads).Quick Splice connectors - can get them locally or at Amazon JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 and install materials You can slide items underneath the seat when it's down, of course, but it won't fold completely upright.īecause of this, I would avoid the JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 (despite it sounding absolutely marvelous), and instead opt for a Rockford Fosgate PS-8 or Kicker Hideaway, both of which are slim enough to be mounted behind the rear seat and still allow for fold-up access to the floor. So, while my sub fits snugly behind that rear seat and the rear seat latches properly, I cannot access my floor storage on that side. I measured ahead of time and knew that it would barely fit, but I didn't account for the change in space behind the rear driver-side passenger seat when you fold it straight up in order to access the flat floor for storage. I installed a JL Audio ACP108LG-W3v3 (8" sub, amp, and box all-in-one), which I ordered from Crutchfield for $429. This setup should work for anyone, regardless of what sub/amp you choose.I wanted to keep the factory head unit so that all of my Sync and climate controls remain in tact.This was on a 2015 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat with MyFord Touch.So I spent a lot of hours in the garage today and figured I'd put down on paper what I learned to make it easier on those wanting to do DIY subwoofer installs in their 2015 F-150. I've been hunting for a long while for this guide, but it didn't exist.
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